Celebrating 49 Years of the Cuba Cheese Shoppe (1976–2025)
Located at 53 Genesee Street, Cuba, NY
The cheese industry has long been a cornerstone of the Cuba, New York, community — a legacy that dates back to the 1800s. During that era, the countryside surrounding Cuba was dotted with small cheese factories situated at rural crossroads. Local farmers would take turns transporting a week’s worth of cheese production into Cuba, where it was then shipped via canal or railroad to major markets like New York City.
For a time, Cuba proudly held the title of “Cheese Center of the World.” Weekly cheese prices were determined during meetings at the Kinney Hotel on West Main Street, and the rates set there were recognized both nationally and internationally.
The Early Beginnings: Ackerly, Sill & Co.
The first major cheese operation in Cuba was Ackerly, Sill & Co., formed in 1871 by Hosea Ackerly, Andrew Ackerly, and Daniel Sill. In 1889, the company renovated a three-story building (today’s Cuba Cheese Shoppe) to store their growing inventory of cheese. Blocks of cheese were kept cool using ice harvested from nearby Cuba Lake, a method that remained effective until the late 1930s.
When Daniel Sill passed away in 1915, William Ackerly and Alvah Renwick joined the company, renaming it Ackerly and Renwick. From 1933 to 1941, it operated as Ackerly and Windsor under the leadership of William Ackerly and James Windsor.
In 1943, the company changed hands again when I. van Zwanenberg and E.S. Moses took over, naming it The Cuba Cheese and Trading Company, Inc. After I. van Zwanenberg’s passing in 1953, his son Nico entered the business. A modern cheese facility was built in South Cuba in 1956, with additional storage buildings added in 1963. In 1977, the company reorganized as Cuba Cheese, Inc. For 50 years, van Zwanenberg and Moses successfully led the cheese operation at both the plant and the Genesee Street office.
Introducing the Cuba Cheese Shoppe
In 1975, the leaders of Cuba Cheese, Inc. decided to establish a retail presence. The historic Genesee Street building was partially renovated, and the Cuba Cheese Shoppe officially opened its doors in the summer of 1976. This storefront offered local and imported cheeses, unique gift items, and mail-order services for customers across the country.
Changes in Ownership
In 1983, the plant was sold to H.P. Hood, and the following year the business was renamed Empire Cheese, Inc. A decade later, in 1993, Great Lakes Cheese of Hiram, Ohio, acquired the facility. Despite the new ownership, the Cuba plant retained the Empire Cheese, Inc. name and continued operations until 2024.
In 1991, the plant’s decision to exit the retail business led to a new chapter for the Cuba Cheese Shoppe. Jeff Bradley of Cuba purchased the storefront and property, and under his leadership, the shop expanded. A renovation in 2007 added space for retail and a larger mail-order packing room. The Shoppe now offers over 450 varieties of domestic, imported, and local cheeses, gourmet foods, salt rising bread, cheese curd, gift baskets, kitchen wares, and more.
The Shoppe also added a successful wholesale delivery service to over 200 stores throughout Western New York and Northern Pennsylvania. In 1994, a fundraising division launched, allowing more than 100 organizations to raise money through cheese sales. Today, the mail-order program boasts an in-house mailing list with over 80,000 customers nationwide.
The Legacy of New York State Cheddar
A guiding mission of the Cuba Cheese Shoppe has always been to promote the exceptional New York State Cheddar, first produced in 1887 at the Ackerly and Sill plant. This cheese is celebrated for its bold, sharp flavor — a distinct characteristic attributed to the mineral-rich soil and water of the region near the Great Lakes. What the cows consume directly influences the milk’s quality, which in turn creates the region’s renowned cheese.
A New Era in Cheese Production
In 2024, Great Lakes Cheese inaugurated its largest facility to date: a 500,000-square-foot plant located in Franklinville, NY. This new site replaced the Cuba facility (Empire Cheese Co.) and is recognized for producing shredded cheeses, mozzarella, and provolone. Meanwhile, Great Lakes Cheese’s Adams, NY plant now handles a majority of New York State Cheddar and cheese curd production.
While cheese is no longer produced in the historic Genesee Street building, the Cuba Cheese Shoppe remains a vital part of the area’s heritage. Contrary to popular belief, cheese is not made in the basement! The site that once stored, aged, and packaged cheese now serves as a premier retail and distribution center — showcasing the region’s flavor, craftsmanship, and tradition.
Looking ahead, the Cuba Cheese Shoppe is proud to continue offering high-quality cheese products, outstanding customer service, and enduring dedication to its community and legacy.
This article is a community submission from Sarah Bradley and has been rewritten and edited for publication. The opinions expressed do not necessarily reflect those of this publication.
